The Girls Are Falling Down

During my first week in the town of Manhiça, Mozambique, a neighbor told me that the girls at the secondary school were falling down. My Portuguese was a bit rusty after living in Montana for two years, so I thought perhaps I had misunderstood, or missed a crucial word or phrase. Maybe they were falling down due to the disrepair of the sidewalk – the simple task of walking is actually treacherous in many parts of this country. Or perhaps they were failing a class, not physically falling.

But the next time it came up in conversation, I was able to confirm that the girls, indeed, are falling down. A bit of probing revealed that the secondary school was built atop a cemetery, and that the girls are ostensibly being possessed by discontented spirits. They fall to the ground, unable to control their own bodies, and when they regain basic motor skills, they seek an audience with the school director and aggressively demand that the grounds be cleansed. Once the spirits leave the girls’ bodies, they return to their normal states of mind and make their way home. Many have lain mute and motionless on the floor throughout an entire class period.

As the girls continued to fall day after day, the issue naturally began to receive a lot of attention throughout Manhiça. One Friday evening, while I waited at the bus stop, I noticed a group of people standing in a circle, unusually quiet for a bus stop crowd. All of the sudden there were yelps of fear and the circle broke back in several spots. Finally able to catch a glimpse of what was on the inside, I saw two girls in school uniforms laying on the ground. One was immobile and silent, while the other had sat upright and startled the spectators. Soon after, my bus arrived, and I crowded myself in quickly, as did a good portion of the crowd. For some, the chance to catch a ride to their next destination apparently outweighed the need to see what the girls would do next.

Several days later, I awoke to the sound of marching, chanting, and whistles blowing. The crowd wasn’t right outside my house, but it was large and loud enough to be heard from several blocks away. When I asked my landlady what all the fuss what about, she told me it was the students from the secondary school, protesting the director’s lack of attention to the issue. According to my landlady, and many other people in Manhiça as well, the director needed respond to the spirits’ demands by performing a cleansing ceremony. This would allegedly solve the problem and everything would be business as usual. Skeptic that I am, I agreed with her that if the solution was that simple, it seemed strange that the director continued to refuse.

Two days later, a meeting was called at the school inviting government administrators, teachers, church leaders, and community members to discuss the issue. During the meeting, a boy (to my knowledge, the first affected by this condition) became possessed with a spirit, grabbed a tray, and began to hit the director over the head. Needless to say, no resolution was found and classes remained on hold.

The ubiquity of Christianity in Mozambique today does not preclude traditional animistic beliefs; many people seem to subscribe to an all-powerful God while simultaneously maintaining a healthy fear of spirits. Still, I couldn’t help but wonder what portion of the community truly believes that the girls are being possessed by the spirits of those who are dissatisfied with the school currently sitting atop their place of eternal rest. My landlady definitely believes this account whole-heartedly – when I told her about the time that I found a boa constrictor in my house in the Dominican Republic, she immediately wondered if someone in the community had put a curse on me. But others believe that the girls are simply seeking attention or a way to get out of school. Sure enough, the protests and meetings kept everyone out of the classroom. But perhaps the school director himself was staging some sort of protest by not performing the ceremony. I was told that he blamed the fainting on dehydration, which seems highly plausible. Stories like this one are not unheard of in other countries; in Cambodia in 2010, angry spirits were blamed for similar behavior among school girls. Other accounts of that particular phenomenon cited poor diets among the girls, who allegedly were limiting their food intake in order to be thin. A 2011 paper published in the Malawi Medical Journal focused on case studies of mass hysteria in schools across Africa, concluding that it is not an uncommon phenomenon, that “incidence is reportedly higher among girls than boys”, and that attention from authority figures and media can exacerbate the problem. Cases of mass hysteria in American schools are not entirely unheard of in recent years either, though spirits do not seem to be part of the explanation.

According to local sources, girls at the secondary school in Manhiça have been fainting on occasion since 2012, but recent numbers have reached an extreme of 70 per day. In years past, the consensus was that the girls were not getting enough (or any) food and water during the hot hours of the school day, and were therefore fainting. This same reasoning was mentioned to me by my landlady as well (the same one who suspected that I had been sent a boa constrictor by a practitioner of folk medicine). But since nothing has been done to improve the availability of food and water, the claims of dehydration have evolved into claims of possession, resulting in aggressive verbal and physical action toward the school director. When I asked a local health worker why only girls are being affected, he said that girls are more vulnerable to spirits. (He then continued to explain how women are more sensitive than men in general, and the conversation took a decidedly different turn.)

Although UNICEF has reported that 100% of children in Mozambique are enrolled in school, largely due to the fact that primary school fees were eliminated in 2005, girls are at a particularly high risk of dropping out or not attending in the first place. The dynamic in the home still largely favors male children; girls do most of the cooking and cleaning and are often expected to keep quiet.

But the girls in Manhiça have been heard loud and clear. The national evening news featured the story at its height, showing images of school girls laying on the sidewalk. Two nights later, the electricity went out before the evening news could come on, leading suspicious folks in Manhiça to conjecture that it was cut intentionally to curb the hysteria. If this truly was the case, it only added fuel to the fire. As excitement continued to build, local healers decided to take advantage of a grim situation by announcing that their fee to cleanse the school yard would be 65,000 meticais (USD $1,900).

During my last week in Manhiça, I heard that the school director had ‘run away’. Not been fired or resigned, simply left. Can’t say that I blame him; it may have been short-sighted to put off organizing the cleansing ceremony, but I wouldn’t want to stick around to be beaten over the head with a tray either. An interim director was appointed, and that’s the last thing I heard before I left town. If this phenomenon is indeed a conscious effort by disempowered young women to grab the attention of their fellow community members, they exceeded their goal by alerting the entire nation of their plight. If it is a classic case of mass hysteria, then perhaps it will just run its course as others have done. Either way, life in Manhiça will be far from normal until all the students are upright and in the classroom, instead of lying on their backs in the dusty streets.

Keeping Up With the Mozes

I’ve never been much of a jogger. I go through phases that don’t last long, but I’ve always much preferred organized exercise – soccer, yoga. But here in Moz, and especially in Maputo, jogging has been an efficient way for me to learn how all the hectic city streets connect, in addition to being good exercise and helping me to clear my head after a day of too-many-hours-staring-at-a-computer-screen. I guess that’s what writing a thesis is about, even if you’re doing it from rural Africa.

When I jog, people often call out to me, and 90% of the time, what they say is “Força!” or “Strength!” I’m accustomed to ignoring most random men who try to talk to me on the street, but when women started to do it as well, I decided it might just be a friendly gesture. I mentioned it to a Portuguese friend of mine and she said “Oh yea, they cheer for you!” It’s actually pretty great.

Running in Maputo is like conquering an obstacle course, forcing you into a parkour-esque routine. There always seems to be a school letting out somewhere, so there are mobs of uniformed children to dodge in addition to gaping holes in the sidewalk, cars, buses, animals, dangling electrical wires, trash, and sandy patches where the road just ends. Add all this to the sweltering heat, and it makes for a jogging experience that keeps your mind and body pretty alert and active. That might be another reason I like to do it so much more here. Only once did I make the mistake of running by the KFC, and I could tell exactly what it was by the smell before I even looked up and saw it. It’s one of the nicest buildings I’ve seen in Maputo, and even has a drive-thru! McDonald’s, for once, seems not to have a stronghold on the fast-food industry in this particular part of the world…

Running in Manhiça is not quite so stimulating, and the scenery is much nicer. A cobblestone road runs by the overlook to the river and the sugar cane fields. It is well lit and runs by the park and several government buildings, so it’s safe to go after the unforgiving sun has finally started to sink. And there are often other joggers taking advantage of this relatively quiet side street, some of whom look like they stopped whatever they were doing a few moments before and spontaneously decided to start jogging. For instance: last week I heard someone running along behind me, and turned around to see that she was barefoot and pregnant. No idiom, she was literally barefoot AND pregnant. Not five minutes later, two other barefoot and pregnant women joined us, wrapped in long capulanas that fell to their ankles. They huffed and puffed alongside me for a quarter mile or so, then stopped to rest. When I looped back around (there aren’t so many roads to choose from in Manhiça), they were at it again. One of them rejoined me on the last leg of my jog, so I asked her “when are you due?” Her response: “I’m at 9 months and I’m sick of it, so I’m trying to get the baby to come out”. At least she was only a few blocks away from the hospital!

Donas Say the Darndest Things

The woman I live with is a fairly typical Mozambican woman from a medium-sized town. She has traveled throughout the country, and I think even in South Africa a bit, and is savvy enough to have made a living and secured a nice home despite having lost her husband years ago. Her children attend university in Maputo, and she watches the news on television each night. Despite her exposure to the modern world, she hasn’t lost touch with the rural beliefs and traditions of Mozambique. And she says some of the darndest things.

Maria: Minha filha (my daughter), your skin doesn’t change color!

Me: Well believe it or not, this is darker than I usually am…

When I came out of my room one morning…

Maria: Eh! You have a skirt??

Me: Yes, I have this skirt I’m wearing, I wear it sometimes…

Maria: I like to see you in a skirt.

Me: OK, well it’s the only one I have, so.

Maria: You have sandals??

Me: Yes, I own these sandals I’m wearing.

Maria: (Grabbing my foot and twisting in a way it resists) I like those! Are they from there?

Me: There? The US?

Maria: Hn. (Affirmative noise.)

Me: Yes they’re from the US.

Maria: That shirt, is it from there?

Me: Yes it’s from the US.

Maria: They have lots of good things there.

Me: Hn.

Maria: You like to drink water.

Me: Yes. I sweat a lot.

When I heard piano music coming from a nearby school…

Me: Oh! There’s a piano nearby?

Maria: Yes there’s a music school.

Me: I play the piano, I grew up playing.

Maria: Oh! Did you bring your piano?

Me: No. That instrument you saw me carrying is called a ukulele.

I went to get it and played her a few songs. She approved.

Maria: Are you going to eat dinner without bathing first?

Me: Well, I don’t really need a bath right now. (Lies. I always need a bath. I’m always sweaty.)

Fast forward to a different day when I wanted to rinse off after dinner…

Maria: You have to digest first! You can’t shower right after dinner.

Me: Oh. Right. Yea I’ll sit here for a bit first.

Another evening, she came out of the bathroom in a towel at dinnertime…

Maria: Sorry, I’m not going to put on any clothes for dinner.

Me: That’s totally fine.

Me: Wow, the neighbors are playing their music really loud today.

Maria: Yes, and in this heat too.

Me: The heat?

Maria: Yes, they’re making so much noise, and in this heat!

Me: (Nod head, pretend to understand)

Me: Did you know the farmers’ association here in town has 57 members, and only 4 are men?

Maria: Men are lazy.

Me: Hm… (laughing inside)

Maria: The end of the world is near.

Me: Sorry?

Maria: The bible says the world’s ending soon, and there’s been a lot of war, and thieves, and accidents. But maybe it’s not ending right now.

Me: Ah ok, so we still have some time.

I feel so lucky to have found this woman, and her brood of children and yelping dogs and one orange tabby. She wipes her mouth on the table cloth, but insists that I have a napkin. She serves me beef liver and avocado mousse, two things that I didn’t really love on my last visit here, but she makes them taste good. She does say the darndest things, but she says other things too. If we sit in silence for long enough, she tells me about her daughter, who died suddenly from a vaguely defined sickness at the age of 40. And her husband, who lost his life during the Civil War, due to what sounds like a misunderstanding with an angry soldier who was a part of the occupation of Manhiça. Her husband wasn’t a soldier, just in the wrong place at the wrong time. She often wonders what it would have been like to have spent the rest of her life with him, instead of the short 15 years that they had together.

When it rains on hot concrete here, it smells the same as it smells anywhere in the world. Kids find ways to entertain themselves, climbing atop dirt mounds at construction sites and sliding down, or jogging alongside me in short bursts. When the lights go out and the music stops and the TV dies, you can hear the buzzing hordes of mosquitoes. Time marches on here in Manhiça, with less ado than many places, across miles and miles of sugar cane plantations along the winding river Ncomati. Yesterday, I learned the proper way to tie a capulana around my waist, which apparently requires no knot at all. All you need is for Dona Maria to walk into the bathroom while you’re brushing your teeth, grab your hips, and give you a tutorial.

The Urban-Rural Conundrum

It’s a bit of a mental challenge to go back and forth between the city and the campo. It amazes me that two places that are only 55 miles apart can be so different. I like being in the city for the familiar comforts it brings – restaurants and English speakers and air conditioning and internet. But every time I go back to the campo, I’m reminded of reasons I love being there as well. We visited a distribution site last week, and on the way there we saw Vervet monkeys hanging around a small plot of corn and jumping from limb to limb in a big mango tree. Just down the road, we crossed a bridge and saw a troop of tiny children swimming naked in a small pond, squealing and beating their clothes on the rocks. When we left the site, we were each given a few ears of corn as a gift. Small things can put a big smile on my face in this environment.

Our plan for the day in this community was to visit one of the sweet potato plots with the president of the local farmers’ association. He took us to the field, but we were all having trouble finding the sweet potato plots. With the recent rain, the grasses had grown high, making for a fairly uniform landscape that easily hides small plots of newly planted vines. To my surprise and delight, the farmer pulled out his cell phone, talked to someone for about 15 seconds, and amazingly knew which way to turn to find the plot after that conversation. He was speaking in Tchangana, so I couldn’t understand what happened, but I cannot imagine what he could have told the person on the phone to make them understand his physical location in relation to the missing plot. “I’m standing in the tall grass off the side of the road and I can’t find the sweet potato plot we planted the other day.” How on earth would you be able to help a person that said something like that? There were no landmarks that my eyes could perceive. But somehow, he and the person he spoke to on the phone understood each other just fine, and he quickly pointed us in the right direction.

I want to be able to speak at least basic Tchangana, so I have begun informal lessons here in Maputo with a friend of a friend. He’s a really smart young Mozambican who studied abroad for a year in the US, and since then has cultivated a love for learning languages that rivals my own. He speaks English very well, as well as Portuguese and Tchangana, and even some German and French, and has enthusiastically supported my decision to try to learn a few basic phrases that will help me interact with people during my fieldwork. After our second meeting, I told him I want to pay for his services, and he refused shyly and politely. In the end, I persevered and was able to convince him to accept the money so he can put it toward his TOEFL certification. I was only offering 200 meticais/hour ($6), and when he finally accepted, I could tell that he was both pleased and surprised that I had offered that much. Maputo is such a strange place, where 200 meticais can be a fortune to an unemployed teenager, or buy you a single appetizer in any number of mid-scale restaurants. Money can go a long way, or nowhere at all.

Central Hospital

When I was last in Mozambique, I didn’t spend much time in the capital, Maputo. Day by day, I’m growing more comfortable with the city, venturing out a bit further on my jogs, and today running errands for the first time in the heart of “downtown”. I took a chopela to get there, which improves my understanding of streets and landmarks more than a taxi. There are many sites to see when walking and driving around this city – today I saw a woman changing her infant’s diaper on the same table from which she was selling produce on the side of the street. Appetizing.

Yesterday, I walked over to the Central Hospital to see what their pharmacy was like. Walking in the front door and through a very short lobby with no secretary, I suddenly found myself standing in front of a room with people quickly coming and going. As the door swung open, I could see tables and people wearing caps over their hair (an OR?). A man walked through the door, the back of his scrubs wet in spots (sweat?) and I suddenly felt I was seeing something I shouldn’t be seeing. I turned around and asked someone (a nurse? Lots of uncertainties in these brief minutes) to point me in the direction of the pharmacy, which was back out the door, across the parking lot, and through another entrance. This is not a small building.

I crossed the parking lot and entered through the door that supposedly led to the pharmacy. Someone directed me up a ramp (paint peeling, ceiling leaking a mysterious liquid onto the floor), and I proceeded across an open air hallway of sorts that joined sections of the hospital together. Down in a courtyard, I could see rusty units (Air conditioners? Generators?) attached to the outside of the ground floor level walls, noisily grinding away. I made it to a lobby where 4 other people sat waiting to speak to a man who sat in a tiny box of a room behind a small window. The pharmacy. Through the window I could see maybe 50 total boxes of medication, some of which was labeled. Basic stuff – Ibuprofen, etc. Maybe antibiotics. Hopefully antibiotics…

With that, I had seen what I came to see and proceeded on my city tour, thanking my lucky stars that I can afford a private hospital should my health be compromised in some way while I’m here. I’ve seen rural, one room hospitals before, but this was different, somehow scarier. Maybe I was expecting it to be better equipped because it’s in a city, and I’m sure that behind some of the closed doors I passed, there are physicians and nurses with essential equipment who save lives every day. This was just one of the many moments when traveling has made me feel so lucky for the safety nets that are accessible to me.

Arrival

Mozambicans are excellent storytellers, and in local languages, one word can tell an entire tale. When I was last in this country, a man told me a story of an enormous mountain, fabled to have a door that opened on occasion. Anyone so lucky to pass through this door would find endless quantities of delicious food.

This week, I traveled to Gaza province to help with a sweet potato vine cutting and distribution. The first community we visited was called Mahoxahomo, a word from the local language Shangana. When I asked for an explanation of the word, I learned that it meant: “During WW2, soldiers would come and camp in these fields. They would kill a cow, build a fire, and cook the meat. This is Mahoxahomo.”

I now see that I must make an effort to learn Shangana, even if I can only get down the basics. It will be difficult as formal teachers are difficult to find, and internet resources are non-existent. But the difference it will make when I enter a community for the first time will be significant. If I want people to trust me, I need to at least be able to say “Hi, how are you, thank you for having me. I’m sorry that I don’t speak more Shangana.”

I can’t remember ever having jet lag as I did when I arrived in Maputo 3 weeks ago. I spent the first few days trying to set my sleep schedule straight – waking up at 2am, lying in bed until 4, finally giving up and putting the kettle on. The only person in the house awake for hours, I sat in the kitchen and sipped tea, reading about sweet potato breeding while the rain dripped off the roof and the sun rose, slowly at first, and then, all at once, 30 degrees Celsius. Those were nice, quiet mornings, but I’m glad to be sleeping through the night now.

The family I’m staying with could not be kinder. Employed by USAID, they are accustomed to traveling and hosting, and have been gracious enough to house and feed me these first few weeks. Their home is lovely and comfortable, and their kids are around my age. I’ve tried to repay them as a good southern girl would: by making lemon icebox pie, banana pudding, and brownies.

We took a trip to the fish market my first week here, asking the cook to come along in hopes that he could help pick the freshest fish and perhaps work the price down a bit. I should have known this gentle man would not be able to counter the effect of our whiteness – we ended up paying well over what the red snapper we finally chose would have cost a Mozambican. I deferred to the cook, and he shyly deferred back to me, mumbling “they’re not going to budge”. I bought a modestly sized fish, joking with the vendors that they better charge me less next time, eliciting huge white grins and “Oh ya, Mãe, of course we will! We want to marry American girls…”

Back at home, I watched the cook prepare the fish with ease, cleaning out the inside, removing scales, slicing the flesh and covering it with garlic, lime and paprika. In the oven, it tantalized everyone in the house. Just as I had anticipated, some of my go-to foods back home are being replaced by seafood and fresh fruit. I’m not upset about it in the slightest.

My office is not comfortable walking distance from the city center, so transportation is a challenge. I don’t necessarily need to go to the office every day, and in fact plan on spending as much time as I can gathering data in the communities that have received distributions of orange-flesh sweet potato (OFSP) vines. But I will go sometimes, to observe the work being done in the greenhouses and tissue culture labs to create and multiply new varieties, the nutrient analysis conducted in the quality labs, and the culinary experiments designed to incorporate OFSP into recipes that will appeal to Mozambican dietary preferences. The buses are tricky, sticky, slow, and cannot be relied on to take the same route each time. They can, however, be relied on to take back alley dirt roads into crowded neighborhoods in which I am immediately and completely lost. I prefer to take a cab, obviously, even though it’s more expensive. I have been offered a moped to get to and from work, and I’m tempted, but I think my good-common-sense will probably lead me to pass on this kind offer…

Some things I’d forgotten since my last visit, or hadn’t thought about in a while…

  • This work is a bit of a boys’ club. I can handle it, but I can’t be the most feminine version of myself if I want to be respected and effective
  • In some parts of the world, Landcruisers actually serve a real purpose
  • Cold showers are incredible
  • Fresh tropical fruit is magical
  • Fresh seafood is my favorite thing, maybe ever
  • For a day laborer on a farm, 6 hours work = $3 USD.
  • For a foreigner, a hotel without 24 hour water/electricity = $55 USD
  • All over the world, people hear the same pop music I hear in the US – I heard a girl singing an Ellie Goulding song as she walked away from the local water pump at dusk with a full jug balanced on her head

After this week’s adventure to the fields, I was fortunate enough to be invited to take a 2 day trip to the beach with some friends who had organized everything – transportation, food, cabana on the beach. We laid in the sun, which burned me a bit through my layers and layers of sunscreen, grilled meat and vegetables for dinner, and took a sunset walk on the beach, where literally thousands of crabs had surfaced for their evening cool down and meal. They ran full speed toward the waves, were washed back, quickly regained footing, and started the process again. I didn’t realize it until I wrote that sentence just now, but that’s often how I feel in this country. High highs and low lows. Ebb and flow of the tide.